AN INAUGURAL TRIP TO ITALY

This spring, I had the pleasure of planning an inaugural trip to Italy for close family friends, Scott and Erin Singer, to celebrate Erin's birthday. Their time was limited to just one week including one night on the flight from the USA.  They planned to use Rome as their gateway. 

With that in mind, I suggested they take the Leonardo Express train (click here for train info) from Rome's Fiumicino Airport to the Rome Termini train station (cost E14) where they would take the Freccia Rossa (90 min between Rome and Florence). The flight was on time and everything worked perfectly.

They were staying at the glamorous "new" Plaza Hotel Lucchesi in Florence.

Rooftop Terrace with pool and view of Santa Croce at the Plaza Hotel Lucchesi in Florence.

The hotel sits along the Arno river and has amazing views of the city. It is also in a perfect location for walking to everything they wanted to see and do. The first day, they discovered happy hour by the swimming pool on the hotel's rooftop was a good buy at E16 per person for the bountiful pasta and accoutrements buffet including a drink. And they reported that the bartender made excellent mojitos!

Scott said that the smartest decision he made in preparation for their trip was to buy a Firenze Card for each of them at E72. This gave them access to some 72 museums in Florence without standing in line. Scott reported that after about 5 museums, the pass pays for itself. For another E5 you can use the bus service and wifi for free!

72 Museums...72 Hours...72 Euro and No Lines!

This pass saved them so much time, they were able to see everything on their list, including the Uffizi Gallery, the Pitti Palace, the Galleria dell' Accademia, Palazzo Vecchio, and the fabulous new Museo del Opera dell' Duomo which is not to be missed.

Among the places where they ate, their favorites were Quattro Leoni where they had their first pear pasta (yes! the dish is made with pears) and the JT Caffe near the Palazzo Pitti (Piazza dei Pitti, 32) where the  cappucino and tiramisu exceeded all expectations. Casual dining, not pricey.

Two of JT Caffe's tempting treats. 

With only four nights to spend, their time in Florence flew by. We told them not to miss the Leather School at Santa Croce Church which you could see from their hotel. They were not disappointed. Both of them loved seeing the artisans at work and the beautiful leather work they produce. Scott bought Erin a purse and the artisan offered to put her monogram very discretely inside the flap. She was thrilled. It was a highlight of their stay in Florence.

Erin's purse from the Leather Factory at Santa Croce with discrete monogram.

Upon departure day, they hopped back on the Freccia Rossa for the short trip to Rome (approximately 90 minutes). They stayed at the Hotel Splendide Royal, a fabulous five-star facing the Borghese Gardens yet a short walk from the Spanish Steps. To celebrate Erin's 40th birthday, they dined at Mirabelle Restaurant on top of the hotel, and it was an evening they will never forget. The setting, the MIchelin caliber service, and the meal were all superb. This was another highlight of their trip.

Mirabelle Restaurant at the top of the Hotel Slendide Royal overlooking the Borghese
Gardens.

Scott and Erin at Mirabelle Restaurant on Erin's' birthday.

Sightseeing in Rome included a private visit to the Vatican with an expert guide organized by Dream Italy.

After two short days in Rome squeezing in as much as they could, they departed for their return flight home already planning their next trip to Italy, a country they came to love in just a short time.

PALAZZO SCANDERBEG OFFERS A NEW ALTERNATIVE IN ROME

Exterior of Palazzo Scanderbeg in Rome.

With a prime central location close to the Trevi Fountain, the interior of the 15th century Palazzo Scanderbeg has been transformed into a town house which includes three contemporary apartments without kitchen facilities and six suites, each with its own kitchen facilities, original beams and floors that have been restored. The insulated windows block street noise. Sizes range from studio apartments to two bedroom two bathroom apartments, perfect for families. There are 11 accommodations in all.

Interior at Palazzo Scanderbeg in Rome.

The palazzo offers a 24-hour concierge service for those wishing to have advise on what to see and do in Rome. The palazzo is owned by the same owners of Hotel Capo D'Africa which is located near the Colosseum. Both properties are managed by the uber capable Alessandra Laterza. If your motto is location, location, location, and you are seeking a quieter option in Rome, this is your place!

Of note – the fabulous chandelier that hangs like huge chunks of ice from the top to the bottom of the stairway and is very cool AND the wellness center in the tower on the rooftop level of the palazzo. Click here for  reservations and more information.

FOCUS ON: MARIA RITA BELLINI

A PRETTY LITTLE WELL KEPT SECRET IN FLORENCE....AND THE WOMAN BEHIND ITS SUCCESS

Maria Rita Bellini with Judith Baer and colleague Antonio Pellegrino, Directorre at the Golden Tower Hotel in Florence on the rooftop terrace of Antica Torre..

With possibly the largest rooftop terrace in Florence, Antica Torre di Via Tornabuoni 1 not only has the view, and 24 unique rooms, there is also the attentive staff and the woman who motivates them. If you are looking for the lobby of the Four Seasons, this is definitely NOT the place for you! There is no real lobby in the hotel which occupies the top two floors of an ancient tower, a stone's throw from the Ponte Vecchio.

Maria Rita Bellini, Direttore extraordinaire at Antica Torre di Via Tornabuoni 1

Maria Rita Bellini, who has managed the hotel since 2009, has watched it grow from 19 – 24 beautifully (but not suffocatingly!) furnished, some of which overlook the River Arno. The décor is fresh and light and every detail is in place. This hotel is a true passion for Maria Rita and her team. She introduced a bountiful breakfast buffet where all items are baked/cooked at the hotel. She enclosed part of the rooftop terrace so that it could be used in inclement weather. Then she added a light menu as guests said they did not want to leave that breathtaking terrace after a day of sightseeing to find something to eat. She is definitely the power behind the throne!

She is also a powerhouse (together with her staff) when it comes to recommendations as to where to eat, which museums have special exhibitions, places to shop, whatever information the guests need, if she does not have the answer, she will find one and quickly,

So the next time you are looking for a great hotel for a family, friends, or someone traveling alone, this little gem has it all.

Special Touch at the Leather School in Florence

The Scuola di Cuoio or Leather School located in Santa Croce Monastery in Florence, Italy, is known the world over for the quality of the leather items that are handmade there. They even have one of a kind designer purses for sale, expensive but featuring remarkable hand craftsmanship. A purchase by a friend today resulted in the leather craftsman etching the owner's initials into the leather inside the purse. Anyone trying to steal the purse stands warned!

FOCUS ON: ALAIN BULLO

I doubt there are many hoteliers who could say that the hotel they now manage played an integral role in that hotelier's birth! One of these rare hoteliers is Alain Bullo, the capable and respected GM at the Hotel Londra Palace in Venice. This is his story.

Alain's legendary father, Aldo Bullo, began working at the Londra Palace when he was 14. He became the Chef Concierge and held that post for most of his 56 years working at the hotel. When Aldo was 18, a French family who lived in Paris checked into the hotel. With them was their young daughter of 14. It seems it was love at first sight but she was too young. When the hotel closed for the winter as they did in those days, Aldo went to work in Paris. He did this each winter for four years, and when the girl turned 18, he asked for her hand in marriage. They just celebrated their 51st wedding anniversary!

Meanwhile, the Londra Palace was part of Alain's life from a very young age. His father used to bring guests to their home for a meal. But he always told his father he would NEVER work at the Londra Palace. He finished his education and took a position at the Lido working for the Starwood Excelsior. The Londra called him for an interview but he disliked the person who was then the GM so much that he just sent them his CV. Once that GM was gone, the owner persisted in trying to persuade Alain to come to the hotel, finally making him an offer he could not refuse.  He began working at the hotel in 2001, and before long, he was made the GM. His dad retired in 2014. And for Alain, the Londra has been part of his life from the very beginning. His advice? "Never say 'never'!" 

WHY YOU SHOULD CHOOSE COMO FOR YOUR NEXT VACATION

Photo by Luca Casartelli

Many clients and friends have asked me over these many years which place in Italy is my favorite outside of the big tourist cities. Here's a clue!

Como, situated at one end of the Lake Como, is very easy to reach from MXP Milan airport. From Como, there is access to scenic tour boats going all over Lake Como to visit points of interest such as the gardens at Villa Carlotta and Villa Balbianello, the picturesque town of Bellagio and one of Italy's oldest golf courses at Menaggio. Hiking, biking and climbing are available in many areas. 

Villa Carlotta, Lake Como

An uncrowded town, Como has a plethora of independent shops, trattorias, lakeside restaurants (the best are Raimondi's at Villa Flori, Numero Nove in the town of Como,  and for very special occasions, Navedano),  gelaterias (the best one is Gelateria Lariana) and there is also a colorful street market on Tues., Thu., and Sat. (the best day!).

Lakeside view of Villa Flori's Raimondi'Restaurant (ground floor) as seen from the private 2 bedroom lakefront villa adjacent to the hotel.

Most of the shopping area in the center of town is pedestrian making it very safe for families with young children. A lovely walking path curves around the lake to the Volta Museum with well appointed children's playgrounds adjacent to the path. It is also easy to cross the Swiss border and visit the Foxtown Mall, the largest enclosed outlet center in Europe.

Judith D. Baer with Cristina Zucchi, Manager of Albergo Terminus and the Hotel Posta.

There are many hotels in Como but certainly the best staffed and maintained are the Albergo Terminus which faces the lake, and the Hotel Posta in town, opened about 2 years ago as a 3-star, and Hotel Villa Flori, sitting directly on the lake outside of the center of town. The Posta has a very nice ground floor bistro. The 14 rooms are on the small side but well appointed, and offer excellent prices. Villa Flori was closed a totally renovated a few years ago. And the Albergo Terminus has been redoing all of its original rooms.

The lakefront Albergo Terminus with its adjacent "pink palace" where 24 new rooms will be made during winter 2016-2017.

The terrace of room 300 at Albergo Terminus (a junior suite connecting to a single room), is perfect for families or for a very large gathering of friends.

The Albergo Terminus will close for 4 months during winter 2016-2017 for a major renovation as 24 new rooms are added and the entire ground floor of the hotel is renovated. The new rooms will be in what the owners call the "pink palace"which is next to the existing hotel.

The Bar delle Terme rrestaurant also has a spacious outdoor lakeview dining terrace for use in warm weather.

The hotel's Bar delle Terme restaurant is always busy and not only because the atmosphere is inviting and the food is good, but also because the manager is a super guy who knows everyone and happens to be THE George Clooney look alike on Lake Como. He is very gracious about posing for photos with guests who then go home and tell everyone "Look who I met on Lake Como", and everyone thinks they met George Clooney!

George Clooney lookalike Maurizio Gerosa, manager of the Bar Delle Terme restaurant at the Albergo Terminus in Como.

"Goat Camp" in Tuscany (and wolves!)

A baby goat at the farm with its guard dog.

WHAT CHILD WOULDN'T LOVE TO PARTICIPATE IN "GOAT CAMP"!

And you thought cashmere goats lived only in Mongolia, Pakistan and Afghanistan. Now there are 300 in the heart of Tuscany just outside of Radda-in-Chianti. Nora Kravis, the owner of the goat farm and a veterinarian, offers "Goat Camp" in the spring when the goats are combed for the cashmere and the newborn baby goats are collected from around the property where they are born. What fun for kids! There are also beautiful big goat guard dogs that - the the help of an electrified fence - protect the goats from the foxes and wolves. Wolves in Tuscany? Who knew? There is quite a large pack that has established itself there. For more information, click on this link.

Tagged: #cashmere, #tuscany, #cashmere goats, #fun for kids,#family fun

Umbria

SPELLO'S INFIORATE

Main street in Spello covered in flower petals.

Spello is one of the most enchanting and unspoiled towns in Umbria. It is only a short drive from Assisi (overrun with tourists, in my opinion) and has some shops, restaurants and a magnificent view from the top of the town. On Corpus Domini, the 9th Sunday after Easter, the main street in Spello is adorned with flower petals, making an incredible scene of "flower art". The flower path begins at the arch and continues for nearly a mile. It is something not to be missed. The dates for 2018 begin June 3. For more details, click here.

Food & Drink

ROME HAS TAKEOUT TIRAMISU! WHO KNEW?!

Tiramisu ready go at POMPI in Rome.

Pompi in Rome (styling themselves as the king of tiramisu!) is just off the Piazza di Spagna one block down on Via Della Croce, 82. They not only have very popular carryout tiramisu, they also have wonderful gelato and other confections. Great for a quick energy boost!

 

WHO EVER THOUGHT THE NATIONAL DRINK OF CUBA WOULD BE POPULAR IN ITALY?!

Mojitos have become very popular in Italy, and there are a growing number of hotels that make a great mojito! Among them are:

1.     Londra Palace Hotel in Venice

2.     Borgo Scopeto Relais in Castelnouvo Berardenga, Tuscany

3.     Empire Palace in Rome

4.     Hotel Posta in Como, Lake Como

5.     Lido Palace Hotel in Riva del Garda, Lake Garda

6.     Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, Sorrento, Amalfi Coast

        7.    Antica Torre di Via Tornabuoni 1 in Florence

ATTENTION CHOCOHOLICS!

Plan ahead for 2016! Perugia hosts the biggest chocolate celebration in Europe for 10 days usually encompassing the last two weekends in October. The 2015 caption for the show was "Eat your Mustache"! There is chocolate everything - chocolate for dogs (!), chocolate kebabs, herbal chocolate and in very form imaginable - lamps, shoes, cell phones/tablets. The festival takes over the town of Perugia but you must make plans very early in order stay in town. Click here for details.

Click here for where to stay.

Chocolate shoes

Chocolate sculpture

What's up in Venice!

WINE BAR 5000 OPENS IN VENICE WITH 700 CELEBRANTS!

Andrea Crosera (4th from the left) at the opening of Wine Bar 5000 in Venice.

Andrea Crosera, the mastermind behind Palazzo Priuli, Casa NIcolo Priuli, his small, moderately priced and centrally located properties, as well as his highly regarded restaurant Luna Sentada, has opened his first wine bar, aptly called Wine Bar 5000, just adjacent to his restaurant. Some 700 friends showed up at the opening! More recently, he has opened yet another hotel just in time for high season.. If the doges return to Venice, Andrea will surely be the next doge with all that he is doing for tourism in Venice. 

 

NEW ACCOMMODATIONS RAISE THE BAR AT PIAZZALE ROMA

One of the new rooms a the Hotel Santa Chiara at Piazzale Roma in Venice.

View to the Hotel Santa Chiara in Venice.

Most visitors arrive in Venice either at the airport, the train station or Piazzale Roma, the final mainland arrival point for buses and cars. Many visitors choose to stay in Venice center because it is convenient. But for those looking for more moderate accommodations, those at Piazzale Roma left much to be desired. Now a new and modern addition to an existing hotel, Hotel Santa Chiara, has definitely raised the bar. With beautifully furnished deluxe rooms with largely soundproof windows, a new and much larger breakfast room, a large rooftop terrace with Grand Canal view, the options have definitely improved. The owners plan to renovate the original part of the hotel during the winter of 2016.

TWO WAYS TO REACH THE AIRPORT IN VENICE

There are two options for getting to and from the Venice airport which is actually located some distance from Venice. The least expensive means is the Alilaguna, the public boat that makes  stops along the canal to and from the airport. It is a service expressly for the airport which costs E27 pp each way plus E3 for extra baggage. The second and most expensive is a water taxi which currently costs E120. Rates are constantly changing and not going down!! Keep in mind that the airport is about a 10 minute walk or 5 minute ride from the dock where the boat drops passengers.

Experiencing Murano's Glass Art with Style

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Visiting ancient Murano --the right way

For those of you who might have heard of bad experiences with the hawkers associated with a Murano visit, it is definitely possible to be scammed. But the magic and mystique of this ancient island known for creating the world's finest glass beckons new and experienced travelers alike, and it's hard to resist seeing the ancient artisans in action during a trip to Venice.

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In my 30 years of working in luxury tourism in Italy, I have seen it all, and for Murano, I recommend one Glass Factory in particular that matches its craft with world-class hospitality for the high-end client. The Bisanzio Gallery situated in the heart of Murano boasts 30,000 sq. ft of glass exhibition galleries. Their dizzying array of gorgeous work is a sight to behold (and Bisanzio does not condone high pressure selling tactics).

Most people who want to visit Murano struggle to find an easy way to make the trip, which normally takes the better half of a day. To make things simpler, the Bisanzio gallery has created an exclusive arrangement for readers of ITN to whisk you from Venice and back in a private boat --plus they extend an attractive discount to anything you choose to purchase. I will vouch for the fact that there is no pressure to buy anything, but that the glassware Bisanizo offers truly tantalizes.

When you're ready to make plans, just contact them using the form below and they will contact you to make arrangements.

Happy travels from all of us at ITN!

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AMERICAN ARTIST'S WORK BEING PRODUCED IN GLASS IN MURANO

The American artist Christopher Baer, a graduate of the Rhode Island School of Design in Providence, RI, began exhibiting his paintings during the 2014 Biennale in Venice. In 2015, a number of his  designs were exhibited during the Biennale but for the first time, the pieces were exhibited in glass made on the island of Murano (and - full-disclosure  - Christopher is my son!) .

The artist has excelled in abstract designs and has become widely sold in the USA in recent years. This new work combines the artist's love of design with his love of Italy, a country he has come to know well.

Learn more about Christopher Baer's work.

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Christopher Baer with some of his glass art creations in Venice.

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Christopher Baer with Stefano Serto of Bisanzio Veteria in Murano

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Florence/Tuscany Update

Don't want to bother with a rental car in florence ?

Don't want to risk getting a fine for bringing a car into the center of FLR without a permit? Florence now offers car sharing! Great for short term transport, and while the service is available in other locations in Italy, Florence is small enough for it to work. Click here for details.

MUSEUM DELL'OPERA DEL DUOMO REOPENS IN FLORENCE

In Florence, the Museum dell’Opera del Duomo, translated as the Museum of Works of the Duomo, dating back to 1891, has now been reopened after 3 years of restoration  and expansion. This grand scale museum, approximately 65,000 square feet, 25 rooms on 3 floors  is located just East of the  Duomo and is spearheaded by Monsignor Timothy  Verdon, an American Art historian as well as several Italian historical architects, houses spectacular masterpieces and an important collection of sculptures. For details, click here.

YES! YOU CAN SWIM IN FLORENCE! BOOK A HOTEL WITH A POOL

Plaza Hotel Lucchesi, Florence

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Plaza Hotel Lucchesi 

Are you looking for accommodations with a pool in Florence? The totally renewed Plaza Hotel Lucchesi with its new rooftop pool  is between the Arno River and Santa Croce Church (where so many famous people are buried), AND the famous Leather School is also close by. At the school, you can watch artisans at work and see some of the incredible one of a kind purses for sale. 

 

Grand Hotel Minerva Florence,

Grand Hotel Minerva

 

The Grand Hotel Minerva is a great place for families and is another property that has completed a major renovation of everything this winter. It is totally set up for families - rooftop pool, family suites, kids' menus, bicycles. Everything! And it is in Piazza Santa Maria Novella, just a hop, skip and a jump from the train station in Florence.

THINK YOU KNOW A LOT ABOUT OLIVE OIL? THINK AGAIN!

Villa Campestri

Sitting high above the bowl in which Florence lies is Villa Campestri Olive Oil Resort, about a 25 minute drive from Florence. The owner, Paolo Pasquali, invented the "Olioteca", similar to an enoteca but for olive oil. And more importantly, a place where one can learn how to distinguish a really good olive oil from more mediocre varieties.

Olioteca at Villa Campestri

Paolo had a dream about becoming the first olive oil resort and he has not only succeeded, he has established an olioteca at the Culinary Institute of America in California as well as in Austria and Spain. He has made so many media appearances and gotten so much press, there is hardly space to hold all the articles about him. He is the resident expert on olive oil and not just in Italy.

Villa Campestri

He has ramped up the restaurant at Villa Campestri to a very professional level and the spa at the hotel does treatments with........you guessed it! Olive oil!

LOVE GREAT FOOD AND WINE? HATE THOSE PESKY PIGEONS? WE HAVE A PLACE THAT IS PERFECT FOR YOU!

Nestled in the countryside outside of Cortona is Il Falconiere and yes! There is a resident falcon Leila who is the pet of Silvia Regi Baracchi, the genius behind the Michelin-starred kitchen and the decor on the property

Riccardo and Silvia Regi Baracchi with their chef Richard,  and Leila, their resident falcon.

Silvia in the kitchen at Il Falconiere.

Her husband, Riccardo Baracchi, tends the vineyards and produces award winning wines. And is a well above average Karaoke singer! Two years ago, they opened a wine bar in the historic center of Cortona which is managed by their son Benedetto.

Left to right: Benedetto Baracchi, his father Riccardo and mother Silvia in the award winning winery at Il Falconiere.

The talent in this family is endless. Silvia and Richard, her chef, conduct cooking lessons regularly, wine tastings are held in their gorgeous enoteca on the property. And what does Leila the falcon do? No self-respecting pigeon would be seen within miles of Il Falconiere! 

VILLA DI PIAZZANO NEAR CORTONA WILL REOPEN IN THE SPRING WITH 30 ACCOMMODATIONS

 

In the years since I first met the wonderful Wimpole family and visited their newly opened Villa di Piazzano (in 2001) outside of Cortona, they have gone from strength to strength. They started with an historic villa that was the hunting lodge of Cardinal Passerini in the 16th century. They built a swimming pool adjacent to the garden. Meal service followed with a very limited menu. Next they opened a wine cellar where they can easily accommodate a group dinner. And gradually, they bought up the ancient stone buildings that surrounded the principal villa. Cooking classes were soon offered by their very personable chef Gabriella. It is a wonderful family-like atmosphere they offer their guests. They are open roughly from Easter until late October.